Italian Indulgence:
Being a man fond of prime numbers and seeing as I decided that 2024 should be a good year- a year of fruition for my projects, and because I last went on holiday in 2018, a most dear friend and I decided to loosely plan a trip to Italy. We figured it prudent to see, as we found, the ruin and splendour of Rome, the charm and quiet of Pisa and the starkness and beauty of Florence. Though I do not wish to bore you with every detail of our trip, I will concede the overall impression of- and journey forged by monumental churches, the scorching hot days and leisurely nights, basking by the beach and dining well; in all, the big and small, unexpected delights.
Our plan for Rome was simple; wake up early, march on St. Peters, then to the Pantheon and so on. On the way, we were to see Trojans Column and glance over the forum briefly before heading to cross and follow the river Tiber upstream. And this we did, albeit with a small detour in and around the Capitoline hill and through the grand marble monument to Victor Emmanuel II before pressing onwards over the Tiber Island. Once across, we delighted in the shade of the great riverbank trees and took a chance on the “Alla Fonte D’oro” juice stands without remiss. Before too long we were then confronted with St. Peters along the “via della conciliazione”, before queuing up for about an hour. Now, in terms of churches, the halls of St. Peters Basilica do simply “take the cake”; as upon entry, your breath too is added to the manifold sea of audible gasps of awe. We also waited and paid to ascend to the top of the cathedral dome where one has a most astonishing view of Rome, despite being encased in a human birdcage.
Afterwards, we visited the Pantheon with its marble-stripped outside, yet most beautifully maintained, though proselytised, classical inside. To think on its longevity, now soon to be some 1900 years old in 2025, is simply fantastic. I myself have always adored its capless dome and checkered inside; the fact that the sun works upon it as a sort of clock, the fact that its shape reflects its original dedication to the many gods of ancient Rome; it’s all quite neat, really. And to my delight so too thought my companion. We saw much more in Rome thereafter, of course, but the rest of that story was just spent wandering about to see the many fountains and ruins and, oh, seeking shelter from the sweltering heat in a lovely little café near the Colosseum where I downed a shameful amount freshly pressed orange juice in an attempt to recuperate.
After Rome we headed by inland train via Florence for a quaint little place on the coast near Pisa where we spent many a day. It is, perhaps, here I liked it best. Each day we spent having small cakes, iced tea and coffee in cafes, basking in the sun by the beach, taking breaks to bathe in the ocean, eating sandwiches, cheese, and gelato in plenty. Come late evening we would dine at some restaurant and then converse over many games of cards while enjoying the passing nightlife. As it so happens, the locals held a flea market nearby where I found a darling little coffee set- and a big white and blue vase, for that matter, beautifully painted with herons midst flora, which was sadly too large to bring home. Alas, now I will sometimes drink my morning coffee from the cute 2-euro service when I want to feel Italian. Furthermore, it was during an evening promenade about the harbour when I found and fell in love with a tiny, reddish wildflower growing near the sidewalk. Its Latin name, I later learned, was Anagallis arvensis, commonly known as the Scarlet Pimpernel. Fixed in my hand, it was perfect, and I swear I drew designs upon it there and then, which I promise you will see in time. Anyhow, the peace was not for long, as we soon felt a lust for adventure, and so decided to take the train to Florence.
When compared to Rome, “Florence”, my friend said, was “noticeably more alive and vibrant”. I had not thought about it, but something about the narrow streets, the Renaissance flair and commercial activity does indeed make for a livelier atmosphere. The “sites to see” are also in closer proximity to each other than in Rome, and in Florence, the train brings you right to the heart of the city. Therefore, my first-timer friend and I could ensure a visit to all the mandatory sites; that being the meticulously decorated Santa Maria Novella, thereafter the great Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore- with gothic inside, then through Piazza della Signoria down to the river Arno, and at last past the splendid Ponte Vecchio. Yet, I had another destination planned as well; that being a certain tailor’s boutique (and workshop) by name of Liverano & Liverano.
Since we had foolishly neglected to check the opening hours, we apparently arrived just in time for their daily lunch break, and so decided that it indeed was time for lunch which we enjoyed at a nearby café. After we had eaten a few pistachio croissants, drunk a little coffee and played some cards, we returned to enter the sleek boutique where we got great help (and plenty time for ourselves) to sift through the entirety of their tie selection. I had just made my purchase and was inquiring whether they had these elegant dark navy socks in my size, when the owners daughter Valentina (who was helping us), halted for a moment and said “no, I’m sorry… but I think my father is here. Would you like to meet him?”, to which the only sane reply was “Sì!”. And so, we were escorted to snoop about the workshops and to shake hands with Antonio, who greeted us generously, kindly enquired where we were from and even stood for a picture; for which he snatched his jacked- making sure he looked his best. When he was satisfied that we had got a picture, he smiled, turned abruptly and huddled on back into the belly of the beast. This was a definite highlight for me and is sure to live on as the most enthralling experience of our trip.
Though Pisa had been lovely, and Florence thrilling, Rome was again on the menu the last day of our trip, as we were flying out of Fiumicino. We had packed our bags the day before in order that we might explore a few more things, foremost of which were the Capitoline museums and the Roman forum with a quick gander round atop the Palatine hill. The museums pleased me the most that day as I finally got to see the statue of “The Dying Gaull” which I have idolized for years. In truth, however, there is so much art and artefact of the ancient Greco-Roman world in these locals that one is easily overwhelmed at both their beauty and number alike. Needless to say, we got our fill, though a guided revisit wouldn’t go amiss in the future. And that too goes for the Forum where we, in retrospect, only pranced around. Regrettably, we found ourselves rushing through these historic attractions because we were all together pressed for time, melting away in the heat, and eager to quench our hunger and thirst. So did our site seeing end, and our journey home begin as we precipitously made haste for the central station and hopped on the train to the airport with pizza slices and soft drinks to go in hand.
To end, I would like to thank my dear friend for accompanying me on holiday and for making this excursion an absolute delight. Wherever he goes, so does good humour, laughter and spirit follow. When I laid flat out in bed, multiple times he nursed me back with food and mocking musings. It pleased me evermore to see these parts of Italy through his eyes. Finally, I know I speak for both of us when I say we had the time of our lives- that it was like a breath of fresh air to be far away from home- and that we dream to dream again.
Thank you.
Mission statement:
After much thought, deliberation and planning, the journey of this magazine, The August, can finally begin. The impulse for creating an outlet of this type has been germinating in my mind for well over a year and is fuelled by a deep and growing passion for all things old and refined. The magazine name itself reflects an austere and hallowed ostent with which I think the subject of craftmanship is due, as well as classical aesthetics and distinct elegance for that matter. Safe to say I have an affinity for silent beauty, “built to last” and material viridity, and, I think, I write in stark reaction to the world time of everything plastic, hollow, lacking- and mass produced.
Before writing all too much, however, I figured it best to do some research- come inspiration hunting. So, I set out reading “The Parisian Gentleman” and “The Italian Gentleman” by my big sartorial hero Hugo Jacomet, as well as “The Perfect Gentleman” and “Jewelry for Gentlemen” by James Sherwood- as recommended online by Jacomet. The latter details an assortment of jewellery items by category and makers, whereas the three former concern the history and achievements of French/Parisian, various Italian and English/London based tailors, cobblers, jewellers, and other specialised artisans of gentlemen’s requisites. Upon perusing their contents, I was most pleased to discover the uncanny similarity of their vision of layout and writing style to mine. Another pleasing factor was their use of visuals where pictures might better exhibit the grit, esteem, and wonders of establishments and crafts. My own vision, however, is to visualise even more- to showcase intriguing items in their detail, or to capture the aesthetics of a scene. Furthermore, great care shall be taken to clearly cite or otherwise reference my sources in good academic fashion as I would like to see a greater level of intertextuality within this significant, albeit broad subject.
Now, while the contents of this magazine will invariably differ in scope and depth from that of the aforementioned authors, I think I write in the same spirit; that is as I see it an attempt at savouring the culture of old while recognizing that change and ingenuity is just as important as traditional praxis in keeping a craft or cultural element alive. Factor in an unquenchable creativity that constantly has me embarking on new projects, the result will no doubt be articles about the creation process of an item- and/or about other endeavours such as travel or perhaps even interviews. Who knows. As one might deduce from my expressions above, however, my writing will from time to time undoubtedly border on the philosophical aspect of culture preservation, let alone opinion. Besides, I can assure that opinion will come in plenty- especially when it comes to certain pet topics.
Rose tinted glasses may, alas, per our human condition, taint our picture of culture, heritage, and the past in general. Hence, I am presented with a fine line to tread if my objective is of any authentic substance. Still, I do so earnestly wish to conjure in writing the magical sense of optimism, sentimentality, and playfulness that I think I first discovered in yesteryear clips of The Dean Martin Show- and later have been delighted to find in Jacomets enthusiastic demeanour and the humour laden within this manifold “gentleman” genre. My advocation for the most integral and intricate parts of our traditions (being part and parcel of who we are today) I hope can enthral, excite, and inspire a kind of stewardship and curiosity in the reader for their own heritage. Somehow, I find that the fairly proximate poltergeist tribulations of the past are just as important to note as the stories we tell ourselves now; what is not more indicative of what we wish could be? Suppose I am concerned with how to improve culture and the fine produce it fruits. Why, it is verily my intent to do so by sharing my infatuation for creating, collecting, and obtaining these delights.
Now, as I am writing to close, I should mention that I am restrained by both time and resources, and, that because I would prefer taking time to write well, the magazine will not enjoy all too many volumes a year. In fact, I have in the first instance restricted myself to publish only three times yearly, making the magazine a quadrimester periodical that accumulates its content with time. Thus, I hope to manage the outlet with some longevity. All this being said, herein so resides my intended direction; to write a relatively well-researched, truly truthful, and insightful ongoing magazine that I hope can constitute a fairly fun, not too light- not too heavy, flagrant read. Hereon, then, only time will tell what I am able to capture, though I nevertheless welcome the reader to incur with me as I embark on this magazine journey of The August.
Thank you.
[Originally published on the 24th of april 2024]