To ‘Brooch’ The Subject:
Truth be told, I know not how in-depth I should go on this one; alas, I know I shall return to the topic many times over as it is one of my favourites apropos men’s style. However, for this edition, I think it would be useful to establish a working frame for what brooches are and how they function, touch briefly on how they might be applied, and lastly relate on how I became interested- while showcasing the spirit of my collection and how I have come to fashion these brooches personally. That is, I should think, enough to cover introductorily:
Although metal brooches historically were used to hold different cloths together, practicality has over the centuries largely given into decorum. Hence, “modern” brooches can be defined as jewellery objects with a “front” or “face” side (for the wearers display), with a “stem” or “pin” and a “catcher” or “clasp” hidden on the back so as to be securely attached to the garment. Throughout time, many cultures have indeed made jewellery brooches for a plethora of applications; displaying wealth and status, virtue and sentiment, symbolism and even attitude (see Church, 2019; Sherwood, 2018, p. 15). As such, one can imagine how a particular brooch may convey rather differently pinned in a Sikhs turban versus on a lady’s dress, or on a modern-day suit, based on its peculiarities. Brooches are, in other words, highly versatile by their very nature, disposition and application.
Regarding specifically more current European uses, however, a brooch will likely be seen applied somewhere on a royal lady’s hat, on the outside of a gentleman’s overcoat, or somewhere on a suit or other related garment. For instance, in his book “Jewelry for Gentlemen”, James Sherwood shows how a brooch may adorn neath the breast pocket of a suit (see Sherwood, 2018, p.120,144-146,156-157). However, it may be a general idea to follow the lead of the British- those paragons of “timeless” style and elegance- in the placement of a brooch, say onto the lapel of a suit; and, furthermore, as whispers say that only royals and citizens above 70 years old (the so-called “honorary”) should don brooches on their left lapel (see Jacomet, 2021). On this note, I must say that I personally find that slender, quaint brooches best apply semi-vertically on the angled suit lapel and in slight and subtle combination with the tie. It is something of a niche habit I have made, this fashion of matching of tie and brooch, but is an avenue I believe elegantly expresses the sentiments of a gentleman’s attentive eye.
Although brooches might have for some time been thought of as a thing for older ladies, as Hugo Jacomet has pointed out, it also ranked best when he polled to see which accessories his followers felt most eager to wear (see Jacomet, 2021). This is very much in keeping with a rising trend pointed out by Sherwood that includes interest in antique and vintage brooches and jewellery at large (see Sherwood, 2018, p.7-8, 102, 198, 212, 214, 202, 205, 155). And no wonder why, as I myself have found many splendid and beautiful treasures sold second hand. Speaking anecdotally, I should think that most vintage brooches were indeed once surely owned by someone’s grandmother. Likewise, it is also said that silk ties accumulate at second-hand retailors when husbands pass on. However macabre the thought, this does to a degree indeed grant the opportune and attentive young the ability to find and wear quality items that would normally fall outside their price range.
My Three First:
Speaking of which, this is exactly how I my collection began. It is rightly some time ago, a couple years actually, that, after I had seen much of Sartorial Talks, The Gentleman’s Gazette, and Kirby Allison online, I felt inspired enough to go looking for gentlemen’s attire within my budget. Low and behold I stumbled across a surprisingly charming brooch online, although I let the thought of it simmer in the back of my mind for a while longer as I went on in my search for more classically “masculine” things. Hence, I decided to visit a couple of second-hand shops nearby in search of some proper neck ties. And boy was I lucky, for they had them in droves. It was then, on my very first tie-shopping excursion, that I realised the match made in heaven twixt this beautiful print silk tie with pattern to match the brooch I had seen- as both happened to have a white, five-petal-flower motif. I instantly fell in love with the idea or matching the two and secured their purchase quickly hence.
I bought many neckties since, though for quite a while I hardly came across any brooch even remotely interesting, despite having made numerous extensive online searches. Then came the Christmas of the year 2022/1, when my then darling love presented me a heart-shaped cardboard box and told me not to shake. I tried guessing, yet had truly no clue, so I closed my eyes and removed the lid before peaking. Then, opening my eyes, an ecstasy bliss befell me at the sight of a silver circle frame ‘round a strutting Bambi deer. I must have shown her the brooch earlier that fall, but whereas I had forgotten, she had remembered. Perhaps it is for naught to say that life, of course, does invariably move along, however, I wish I could convey how great that moment really did feel. Suffice it to say that it remains a most cherished memory, and that I am still moved by this brooch. So, remember; there is power in a well-thought-over gift. I have no particular tie to accompany this brooch as its versatility occurs apparent, although I think it pairs best with cold blue and silvery grey accents.
Then it was the third, and last for now: A brooch I ordered after much contemplation, but soon after I had gotten my second, early in the new year, January of 2023. Reminiscent of my first brooch, yet different enough- I had searched long for brooches similar, however, this one seemed simply perfect to pair with a particular tie I had stashed away from some time earlier. The tie itself, being of a stripey blue and shiny snow-white silver silk is difficult to wear with anything other than a clean light white dress shirt. However, when I once in a blue moon have the opportunity- and if the weather is chilly, and I want to accentuate a stern presence- then I will gladly pin upon my breast a most elegant stark white- and frosty blue leafy straw enamel brooch. And, in fact, this very combination set is among my very favourites.
To round off, then, I am not solely infatuated with the beauty of certain brooches, but more so with the ability to express oneself further when they are made part of an ensemble. Therefore, I do so hope I have been successful in illustrating the brilliance of these Nordic silver jewellery pieces- and perhaps that this article has sparked some interest and gusto in other men seeking new ways of expressing themselves through style. Now, I personally advice you choose your brooches carefully; that you stere away from big and sprawling brooches that will seem garish or brash on a man’s suit lapel. In other words, if a giant diamond encrusted octopus is making eyes at you, it is either meant for a woman’s hat, dress or overcoat, or you have been drinking something you shouldn’t have. After all, diamonds are a guy’s best friend usually only in so far as it us a gift for his lady. Personally, I try to choose something that could either be unisex, or that has a feminine or naturalistic essence to it; thereby bringing a little bit of the feminine yin to the masculine yang inherent in me as a man. The point, I think, should, as always, be to strive for a balance in one’s attire, and to leave a little room for allurement. Wearing a brooch can be daring enough, so I would try to stay on the edge, meanwhile minding not to overstep my bounds.
And that, good people, will have to do for now. Rest assured there’s more to come eventually. But, for now, what remains for me is to wish you all a most merry Christmas, and a blessed, happy new year.
Thank you.
Works Cited:
Church, Rachel. Brooches and Badges. London, Thames & Hudson Lt, 2019.
Jacomet, H. (Aug 26, 2021). Jewelry for Gentlemen [Audiovisual episode of "Sartorial Talks"] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27RAcce_GDI
Sherwood, James. Jewelry for Gentlemen. London, Thames & Hudson Ltd, 2018.
*Please note that “see” is used in the text above to denote indirect or descriptive references/reviews inviting further reading on the part of the reader/viewer where no part of an author’s/creator’s work has been directly reproduced or transmitted. Still, pages and “timestamps” are provided where relevant. MLA referencing is done to the best of my ability and knowledge for the sake of transparency and authenticity.
Italian Indulgence:
Being a man fond of prime numbers and seeing as I decided that 2024 should be a good year- a year of fruition for my projects, and because I last went on holiday in 2018, a most dear friend and I decided to loosely plan a trip to Italy. We figured it prudent to see, as we found, the ruin and splendour of Rome, the charm and quiet of Pisa and the starkness and beauty of Florence. Though I do not wish to bore you with every detail of our trip, I will concede the overall impression of- and journey forged by monumental churches, the scorching hot days and leisurely nights, basking by the beach and dining well; in all, the big and small, unexpected delights.
Our plan for Rome was simple; wake up early, march on St. Peters, then to the Pantheon and so on. On the way, we were to see Trojans Column and glance over the forum briefly before heading to cross and follow the river Tiber upstream. And this we did, albeit with a small detour in and around the Capitoline hill and through the grand marble monument to Victor Emmanuel II before pressing onwards over the Tiber Island. Once across, we delighted in the shade of the great riverbank trees and took a chance on the “Alla Fonte D’oro” juice stands without remiss. Before too long we were then confronted with St. Peters along the “via della conciliazione”, before queuing up for about an hour. Now, in terms of churches, the halls of St. Peters Basilica do simply “take the cake”; as upon entry, your breath too is added to the manifold sea of audible gasps of awe. We also waited and paid to ascend to the top of the cathedral dome where one has a most astonishing view of Rome, despite being encased in a human birdcage.
Afterwards, we visited the Pantheon with its marble-stripped outside, yet most beautifully maintained, though proselytised, classical inside. To think on its longevity, now soon to be some 1900 years old in 2025, is simply fantastic. I myself have always adored its capless dome and checkered inside; the fact that the sun works upon it as a sort of clock, the fact that its shape reflects its original dedication to the many gods of ancient Rome; it’s all quite neat, really. And to my delight so too thought my companion. We saw much more in Rome thereafter, of course, but the rest of that story was just spent wandering about to see the many fountains and ruins and, oh, seeking shelter from the sweltering heat in a lovely little café near the Colosseum where I downed a shameful amount freshly pressed orange juice in an attempt to recuperate.
After Rome we headed by inland train via Florence for a quaint little place on the coast near Pisa where we spent many a day. It is, perhaps, here I liked it best. Each day we spent having small cakes, iced tea and coffee in cafes, basking in the sun by the beach, taking breaks to bathe in the ocean, eating sandwiches, cheese, and gelato in plenty. Come late evening we would dine at some restaurant and then converse over many games of cards while enjoying the passing nightlife. As it so happens, the locals held a flea market nearby where I found a darling little coffee set- and a big white and blue vase, for that matter, beautifully painted with herons midst flora, which was sadly too large to bring home. Alas, now I will sometimes drink my morning coffee from the cute 2-euro service when I want to feel Italian. Furthermore, it was during an evening promenade about the harbour when I found and fell in love with a tiny, reddish wildflower growing near the sidewalk. Its Latin name, I later learned, was Anagallis arvensis, commonly known as the Scarlet Pimpernel. Fixed in my hand, it was perfect, and I swear I drew designs upon it there and then, which I promise you will see in time. Anyhow, the peace was not for long, as we soon felt a lust for adventure, and so decided to take the train to Florence.
When compared to Rome, “Florence”, my friend said, was “noticeably more alive and vibrant”. I had not thought about it, but something about the narrow streets, the Renaissance flair and commercial activity does indeed make for a livelier atmosphere. The “sites to see” are also in closer proximity to each other than in Rome, and in Florence, the train brings you right to the heart of the city. Therefore, my first-timer friend and I could ensure a visit to all the mandatory sites; that being the meticulously decorated Santa Maria Novella, thereafter the great Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore- with gothic inside, then through Piazza della Signoria down to the river Arno, and at last past the splendid Ponte Vecchio. Yet, I had another destination planned as well; that being a certain tailor’s boutique (and workshop) by name of Liverano & Liverano.
Since we had foolishly neglected to check the opening hours, we apparently arrived just in time for their daily lunch break, and so decided that it indeed was time for lunch which we enjoyed at a nearby café. After we had eaten a few pistachio croissants, drunk a little coffee and played some cards, we returned to enter the sleek boutique where we got great help (and plenty time for ourselves) to sift through the entirety of their tie selection. I had just made my purchase and was inquiring whether they had these elegant dark navy socks in my size, when the owners daughter Valentina (who was helping us), halted for a moment and said “no, I’m sorry… but I think my father is here. Would you like to meet him?”, to which the only sane reply was “Sì!”. And so, we were escorted to snoop about the workshops and to shake hands with Antonio, who greeted us generously, kindly enquired where we were from and even stood for a picture; for which he snatched his jacked- making sure he looked his best. When he was satisfied that we had got a picture, he smiled, turned abruptly and huddled on back into the belly of the beast. This was a definite highlight for me and is sure to live on as the most enthralling experience of our trip.
Though Pisa had been lovely, and Florence thrilling, Rome was again on the menu the last day of our trip, as we were flying out of Fiumicino. We had packed our bags the day before in order that we might explore a few more things, foremost of which were the Capitoline museums and the Roman forum with a quick gander round atop the Palatine hill. The museums pleased me the most that day as I finally got to see the statue of “The Dying Gaull” which I have idolized for years. In truth, however, there is so much art and artefact of the ancient Greco-Roman world in these locals that one is easily overwhelmed at both their beauty and number alike. Needless to say, we got our fill, though a guided revisit wouldn’t go amiss in the future. And that too goes for the Forum where we, in retrospect, only pranced around. Regrettably, we found ourselves rushing through these historic attractions because we were all together pressed for time, melting away in the heat, and eager to quench our hunger and thirst. So did our site seeing end, and our journey home begin as we precipitously made haste for the central station and hopped on the train to the airport with pizza slices and soft drinks to go in hand.
To end, I would like to thank my dear friend for accompanying me on holiday and for making this excursion an absolute delight. Wherever he goes, so does good humour, laughter and spirit follow. When I laid flat out in bed, multiple times he nursed me back with food and mocking musings. It pleased me evermore to see these parts of Italy through his eyes. Finally, I know I speak for both of us when I say we had the time of our lives- that it was like a breath of fresh air to be far away from home- and that we dream to dream again.
Thank you.
Mission statement:
After much thought, deliberation and planning, the journey of this magazine, The August, can finally begin. The impulse for creating an outlet of this type has been germinating in my mind for well over a year and is fuelled by a deep and growing passion for all things old and refined. The magazine name itself reflects an austere and hallowed ostent with which I think the subject of craftmanship is due, as well as classical aesthetics and distinct elegance for that matter. Safe to say I have an affinity for silent beauty, “built to last” and material viridity, and, I think, I write in stark reaction to the world time of everything plastic, hollow, lacking- and mass produced.
Before writing all too much, however, I figured it best to do some research- come inspiration hunting. So, I set out reading “The Parisian Gentleman” and “The Italian Gentleman” by my big sartorial hero Hugo Jacomet, as well as “The Perfect Gentleman” and “Jewelry for Gentlemen” by James Sherwood- as recommended online by Jacomet. The latter details an assortment of jewellery items by category and makers, whereas the three former concern the history and achievements of French/Parisian, various Italian and English/London based tailors, cobblers, jewellers, and other specialised artisans of gentlemen’s requisites. Upon perusing their contents, I was most pleased to discover the uncanny similarity of their vision of layout and writing style to mine. Another pleasing factor was their use of visuals where pictures might better exhibit the grit, esteem, and wonders of establishments and crafts. My own vision, however, is to visualise even more- to showcase intriguing items in their detail, or to capture the aesthetics of a scene. Furthermore, great care shall be taken to clearly cite or otherwise reference my sources in good academic fashion as I would like to see a greater level of intertextuality within this significant, albeit broad subject.
Now, while the contents of this magazine will invariably differ in scope and depth from that of the aforementioned authors, I think I write in the same spirit; that is as I see it an attempt at savouring the culture of old while recognizing that change and ingenuity is just as important as traditional praxis in keeping a craft or cultural element alive. Factor in an unquenchable creativity that constantly has me embarking on new projects, the result will no doubt be articles about the creation process of an item- and/or about other endeavours such as travel or perhaps even interviews. Who knows. As one might deduce from my expressions above, however, my writing will from time to time undoubtedly border on the philosophical aspect of culture preservation, let alone opinion. Besides, I can assure that opinion will come in plenty- especially when it comes to certain pet topics.
Rose tinted glasses may, alas, per our human condition, taint our picture of culture, heritage, and the past in general. Hence, I am presented with a fine line to tread if my objective is of any authentic substance. Still, I do so earnestly wish to conjure in writing the magical sense of optimism, sentimentality, and playfulness that I think I first discovered in yesteryear clips of The Dean Martin Show- and later have been delighted to find in Jacomets enthusiastic demeanour and the humour laden within this manifold “gentleman” genre. My advocation for the most integral and intricate parts of our traditions (being part and parcel of who we are today) I hope can enthral, excite, and inspire a kind of stewardship and curiosity in the reader for their own heritage. Somehow, I find that the fairly proximate poltergeist tribulations of the past are just as important to note as the stories we tell ourselves now; what is not more indicative of what we wish could be? Suppose I am concerned with how to improve culture and the fine produce it fruits. Why, it is verily my intent to do so by sharing my infatuation for creating, collecting, and obtaining these delights.
Now, as I am writing to close, I should mention that I am restrained by both time and resources, and, that because I would prefer taking time to write well, the magazine will not enjoy all too many volumes a year. In fact, I have in the first instance restricted myself to publish only three times yearly, making the magazine a quadrimester periodical that accumulates its content with time. Thus, I hope to manage the outlet with some longevity. All this being said, herein so resides my intended direction; to write a relatively well-researched, truly truthful, and insightful ongoing magazine that I hope can constitute a fairly fun, not too light- not too heavy, flagrant read. Hereon, then, only time will tell what I am able to capture, though I nevertheless welcome the reader to incur with me as I embark on this magazine journey of The August.
Thank you.
[Originally published on the 24th of april 2024]