To ‘Brooch’ The Subject:
Truth be told, I know not how in-depth I should go on this one; alas, I know I shall return to the topic many times over as it is one of my favourites apropos men’s style. However, for this edition, I think it would be useful to establish a working frame for what brooches are and how they function, touch briefly on how they might be applied, and lastly relate on how I became interested- while showcasing the spirit of my collection and how I have come to fashion these brooches personally. That is, I should think, enough to cover introductorily:
Although metal brooches historically were used to hold different cloths together, practicality has over the centuries largely given into decorum. Hence, “modern” brooches can be defined as jewellery objects with a “front” or “face” side (for the wearers display), with a “stem” or “pin” and a “catcher” or “clasp” hidden on the back so as to be securely attached to the garment. Throughout time, many cultures have indeed made jewellery brooches for a plethora of applications; displaying wealth and status, virtue and sentiment, symbolism and even attitude (see Church, 2019; Sherwood, 2018, p. 15). As such, one can imagine how a particular brooch may convey rather differently pinned in a Sikhs turban versus on a lady’s dress, or on a modern-day suit, based on its peculiarities. Brooches are, in other words, highly versatile by their very nature, disposition and application.
Regarding specifically more current European uses, however, a brooch will likely be seen applied somewhere on a royal lady’s hat, on the outside of a gentleman’s overcoat, or somewhere on a suit or other related garment. For instance, in his book “Jewelry for Gentlemen”, James Sherwood shows how a brooch may adorn neath the breast pocket of a suit (see Sherwood, 2018, p.120,144-146,156-157). However, it may be a general idea to follow the lead of the British- those paragons of “timeless” style and elegance- in the placement of a brooch, say onto the lapel of a suit; and, furthermore, as whispers say that only royals and citizens above 70 years old (the so-called “honorary”) should don brooches on their left lapel (see Jacomet, 2021). On this note, I must say that I personally find that slender, quaint brooches best apply semi-vertically on the angled suit lapel and in slight and subtle combination with the tie. It is something of a niche habit I have made, this fashion of matching of tie and brooch, but is an avenue I believe elegantly expresses the sentiments of a gentleman’s attentive eye.
Although brooches might have for some time been thought of as a thing for older ladies, as Hugo Jacomet has pointed out, it also ranked best when he polled to see which accessories his followers felt most eager to wear (see Jacomet, 2021). This is very much in keeping with a rising trend pointed out by Sherwood that includes interest in antique and vintage brooches and jewellery at large (see Sherwood, 2018, p.7-8, 102, 198, 212, 214, 202, 205, 155). And no wonder why, as I myself have found many splendid and beautiful treasures sold second hand. Speaking anecdotally, I should think that most vintage brooches were indeed once surely owned by someone’s grandmother. Likewise, it is also said that silk ties accumulate at second-hand retailors when husbands pass on. However macabre the thought, this does to a degree indeed grant the opportune and attentive young the ability to find and wear quality items that would normally fall outside their price range.
My Three First:
Speaking of which, this is exactly how I my collection began. It is rightly some time ago, a couple years actually, that, after I had seen much of Sartorial Talks, The Gentleman’s Gazette, and Kirby Allison online, I felt inspired enough to go looking for gentlemen’s attire within my budget. Low and behold I stumbled across a surprisingly charming brooch online, although I let the thought of it simmer in the back of my mind for a while longer as I went on in my search for more classically “masculine” things. Hence, I decided to visit a couple of second-hand shops nearby in search of some proper neck ties. And boy was I lucky, for they had them in droves. It was then, on my very first tie-shopping excursion, that I realised the match made in heaven twixt this beautiful print silk tie with pattern to match the brooch I had seen- as both happened to have a white, five-petal-flower motif. I instantly fell in love with the idea or matching the two and secured their purchase quickly hence.
I bought many neckties since, though for quite a while I hardly came across any brooch even remotely interesting, despite having made numerous extensive online searches. Then came the Christmas of the year 2022/1, when my then darling love presented me a heart-shaped cardboard box and told me not to shake. I tried guessing, yet had truly no clue, so I closed my eyes and removed the lid before peaking. Then, opening my eyes, an ecstasy bliss befell me at the sight of a silver circle frame ‘round a strutting Bambi deer. I must have shown her the brooch earlier that fall, but whereas I had forgotten, she had remembered. Perhaps it is for naught to say that life, of course, does invariably move along, however, I wish I could convey how great that moment really did feel. Suffice it to say that it remains a most cherished memory, and that I am still moved by this brooch. So, remember; there is power in a well-thought-over gift. I have no particular tie to accompany this brooch as its versatility occurs apparent, although I think it pairs best with cold blue and silvery grey accents.
Then it was the third, and last for now: A brooch I ordered after much contemplation, but soon after I had gotten my second, early in the new year, January of 2023. Reminiscent of my first brooch, yet different enough- I had searched long for brooches similar, however, this one seemed simply perfect to pair with a particular tie I had stashed away from some time earlier. The tie itself, being of a stripey blue and shiny snow-white silver silk is difficult to wear with anything other than a clean light white dress shirt. However, when I once in a blue moon have the opportunity- and if the weather is chilly, and I want to accentuate a stern presence- then I will gladly pin upon my breast a most elegant stark white- and frosty blue leafy straw enamel brooch. And, in fact, this very combination set is among my very favourites.
To round off, then, I am not solely infatuated with the beauty of certain brooches, but more so with the ability to express oneself further when they are made part of an ensemble. Therefore, I do so hope I have been successful in illustrating the brilliance of these Nordic silver jewellery pieces- and perhaps that this article has sparked some interest and gusto in other men seeking new ways of expressing themselves through style. Now, I personally advice you choose your brooches carefully; that you stere away from big and sprawling brooches that will seem garish or brash on a man’s suit lapel. In other words, if a giant diamond encrusted octopus is making eyes at you, it is either meant for a woman’s hat, dress or overcoat, or you have been drinking something you shouldn’t have. After all, diamonds are a guy’s best friend usually only in so far as it us a gift for his lady. Personally, I try to choose something that could either be unisex, or that has a feminine or naturalistic essence to it; thereby bringing a little bit of the feminine yin to the masculine yang inherent in me as a man. The point, I think, should, as always, be to strive for a balance in one’s attire, and to leave a little room for allurement. Wearing a brooch can be daring enough, so I would try to stay on the edge, meanwhile minding not to overstep my bounds.
And that, good people, will have to do for now. Rest assured there’s more to come eventually. But, for now, what remains for me is to wish you all a most merry Christmas, and a blessed, happy new year.
Thank you.
Works Cited:
Church, Rachel. Brooches and Badges. London, Thames & Hudson Lt, 2019.
Jacomet, H. (Aug 26, 2021). Jewelry for Gentlemen [Audiovisual episode of "Sartorial Talks"] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27RAcce_GDI
Sherwood, James. Jewelry for Gentlemen. London, Thames & Hudson Ltd, 2018.
*Please note that “see” is used in the text above to denote indirect or descriptive references/reviews inviting further reading on the part of the reader/viewer where no part of an author’s/creator’s work has been directly reproduced or transmitted. Still, pages and “timestamps” are provided where relevant. MLA referencing is done to the best of my ability and knowledge for the sake of transparency and authenticity.