Italian Indulgence:

Being a man fond of prime numbers and seeing as I decided that 2024 should be a good year- a year of fruition for my projects, and because I last went on holiday in 2018, a most dear friend and I decided to loosely plan a trip to Italy. We figured it prudent to see, as we found, the ruin and splendour of Rome, the charm and quiet of Pisa and the starkness and beauty of Florence. Though I do not wish to bore you with every detail of our trip, I will concede the overall impression of- and journey forged by monumental churches, the scorching hot days and leisurely nights, basking by the beach and dining well; in all, the big and small, unexpected delights.

Our plan for Rome was simple; wake up early, march on St. Peters, then to the Pantheon and so on. On the way, we were to see Trojans Column and glance over the forum briefly before heading to cross and follow the river Tiber upstream. And this we did, albeit with a small detour in and around the Capitoline hill and through the grand marble monument to Victor Emmanuel II before pressing onwards over the Tiber Island. Once across, we delighted in the shade of the great riverbank trees and took a chance on the “Alla Fonte D’oro” juice stands without remiss. Before too long we were then confronted with St. Peters along the “via della conciliazione”, before queuing up for about an hour. Now, in terms of churches, the halls of St. Peters Basilica do simply “take the cake”; as upon entry, your breath too is added to the manifold sea of audible gasps of awe. We also waited and paid to ascend to the top of the cathedral dome where one has a most astonishing view of Rome, despite being encased in a human birdcage.

Afterwards, we visited the Pantheon with its marble-stripped outside, yet most beautifully maintained, though proselytised, classical inside. To think on its longevity, now soon to be some 1900 years old in 2025, is simply fantastic. I myself have always adored its capless dome and checkered inside; the fact that the sun works upon it as a sort of clock, the fact that its shape reflects its original dedication to the many gods of ancient Rome; it’s all quite neat, really. And to my delight so too thought my companion. We saw much more in Rome thereafter, of course, but the rest of that story was just spent wandering about to see the many fountains and ruins and, oh, seeking shelter from the sweltering heat in a lovely little café near the Colosseum where I downed a shameful amount freshly pressed orange juice in an attempt to recuperate.

After Rome we headed by inland train via Florence for a quaint little place on the coast near Pisa where we spent many a day. It is, perhaps, here I liked it best. Each day we spent having small cakes, iced tea and coffee in cafes, basking in the sun by the beach, taking breaks to bathe in the ocean, eating sandwiches, cheese, and gelato in plenty. Come late evening we would dine at some restaurant and then converse over many games of cards while enjoying the passing nightlife. As it so happens, the locals held a flea market nearby where I found a darling little coffee set- and a big white and blue vase, for that matter, beautifully painted with herons midst flora, which was sadly too large to bring home. Alas, now I will sometimes drink my morning coffee from the cute 2-euro service when I want to feel Italian. Furthermore, it was during an evening promenade about the harbour when I found and fell in love with a tiny, reddish wildflower growing near the sidewalk. Its Latin name, I later learned, was Anagallis arvensis, commonly known as the Scarlet Pimpernel. Fixed in my hand, it was perfect, and I swear I drew designs upon it there and then, which I promise you will see in time. Anyhow, the peace was not for long, as we soon felt a lust for adventure, and so decided to take the train to Florence.

When compared to Rome, “Florence”, my friend said, was “noticeably more alive and vibrant”. I had not thought about it, but something about the narrow streets, the Renaissance flair and commercial activity does indeed make for a livelier atmosphere. The “sites to see” are also in closer proximity to each other than in Rome, and in Florence, the train brings you right to the heart of the city. Therefore, my first-timer friend and I could ensure a visit to all the mandatory sites; that being the meticulously decorated Santa Maria Novella, thereafter the great Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore- with gothic inside, then through Piazza della Signoria down to the river Arno, and at last past the splendid Ponte Vecchio. Yet, I had another destination planned as well; that being a certain tailor’s boutique (and workshop) by name of Liverano & Liverano.

Since we had foolishly neglected to check the opening hours, we apparently arrived just in time for their daily lunch break, and so decided that it indeed was time for lunch which we enjoyed at a nearby café. After we had eaten a few pistachio croissants, drunk a little coffee and played some cards, we returned to enter the sleek boutique where we got great help (and plenty time for ourselves) to sift through the entirety of their tie selection. I had just made my purchase and was inquiring whether they had these elegant dark navy socks in my size, when the owners daughter Valentina (who was helping us), halted for a moment and said “no, I’m sorry… but I think my father is here. Would you like to meet him?”, to which the only sane reply was “Sì!”. And so, we were escorted to snoop about the workshops and to shake hands with Antonio, who greeted us generously, kindly enquired where we were from and even stood for a picture; for which he snatched his jacked- making sure he looked his best. When he was satisfied that we had got a picture, he smiled, turned abruptly and huddled on back into the belly of the beast. This was a definite highlight for me and is sure to live on as the most enthralling experience of our trip.

Though Pisa had been lovely, and Florence thrilling, Rome was again on the menu the last day of our trip, as we were flying out of Fiumicino. We had packed our bags the day before in order that we might explore a few more things, foremost of which were the Capitoline museums and the Roman forum with a quick gander round atop the Palatine hill. The museums pleased me the most that day as I finally got to see the statue of “The Dying Gaull” which I have idolized for years. In truth, however, there is so much art and artefact of the ancient Greco-Roman world in these locals that one is easily overwhelmed at both their beauty and number alike. Needless to say, we got our fill, though a guided revisit wouldn’t go amiss in the future. And that too goes for the Forum where we, in retrospect, only pranced around. Regrettably, we found ourselves rushing through these historic attractions because we were all together pressed for time, melting away in the heat, and eager to quench our hunger and thirst. So did our site seeing end, and our journey home begin as we precipitously made haste for the central station and hopped on the train to the airport with pizza slices and soft drinks to go in hand.

To end, I would like to thank my dear friend for accompanying me on holiday and for making this excursion an absolute delight. Wherever he goes, so does good humour, laughter and spirit follow. When I laid flat out in bed, multiple times he nursed me back with food and mocking musings. It pleased me evermore to see these parts of Italy through his eyes. Finally, I know I speak for both of us when I say we had the time of our lives- that it was like a breath of fresh air to be far away from home- and that we dream to dream again.

Thank you.